Andalusian Discoveries

Plaza Rib Rambla, medieval Granada'a main square

Kaarina 

Mike and I were sipping a glass of Rioja at an outdoor cafe across from our hotel in Granada’s ancient Plaza Bib Rambla when our waitress surprised us, placing a slate of mysterious golden fritters on our table. We hadn’t ordered food but tucked right in, happy that we had stumbled on a traditional taverna like El Laurel, which still serves a complimentary tapa with a drink, a custom that is quickly vanishing across much of Spain. That night was our introduction to Berenjenas con Miel Cana — an Andalusian specialty that has its roots in southern Spain’s 700-year Moorish history. Deep fried aubergine, crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside and drizzled with a dark brown cane honey. Eggplant has never tasted so good. From the first bite it was clear that this was going home with me to our next Epitourist lunch.

Deep fried eggplant drizzled with cane honey

Before I left on my October tour of Spain’s major Moorish sights, the Epitourists had agreed that we would cook an Andalusian feast on my return. So I was on a mission to find dishes I had never tried before but could take home and cook in my own kitchen.

Ronda - Puente Nuevo was built almost 300 years ago

I found the second dish for our menu in Ronda, the stunningly beautiful Andalusian White Hill Town that straddles a deep 390-foot gorge. Restaurante Las Maravillas’ tapas menu translated Carrillada as “braised pork cheeks.” Who knew the tenderest, tastiest cut from a pig fits into the palm of your hand? I pledged, on my return to find pork cheeks (aka jowls) in Toronto. (Order ahead from Sanagan’s Meat Locker / in Kensington Market.) I used a Nigel Slater’s Pigs Cheek recipe from the Guardian  with good success.

Pork cheeks and company!

Meanwhile, my Epitourist mates were researching Andalusian cooking online. Diane found a stew using spinach and chickpeas, ingredients that — like aubergines — were brought to Spain by the Moors. She mentioned the dish in an email, and that evening I spied Espinacas con Garbanzos on the menu at what had already become our favourite tapas bar in Sevilla: Las Teresas, a three-minute stroll from our hotel through narrow “kissing streets” of medieval Barrio Santa Cruz. 

Sevilla's Kissing Street and Las Teresas

Las Teresas’ Espinacas con Garbanzos was quite good, of course, but paled in comparison to the delightful dish Diane meticulously constructed in my kitchen in Toronto and served promptly as soon as the spinach was cooked.

Diane's Espinacas con Garbanzos

Diane

My research led me to the Hola Foodie site and a dish described as ‘bueno, bonito y barato’, which translates into ‘good, beautiful and cheap.’ Like many other peasant recipes from southern Spain, chickpeas and spinach are a fine example of how to make the most of simple and humble ingredients. Andalusian Chickpeas and Spinach somewhat surprised me as I don't quickly connect southern Spain with either of the main ingredients. Plain food, but so delicious when seasoned with the cumin, garlic, smoked paprika and cayenne pepper. The recipe noted frozen spinach was acceptable, but fresh was definitely more appealing.

Andalusian Fall Feast

A salute to Jerez!

Kaarina
 
Our late October feast opened with a salute to Jerez, Andalusia’s most famous wine region, in the southeast corner of Spain. A tasting of three dry sherries, accompanied by toasted almonds and orange-stuffed olives, segued to mushrooms in sherry, braised pork cheeks, spinach and chickpea “stew”, braised bulls tail and culminated in sweet tortas and Spanish cheeses. The three sherries — Lustau’s Almacenista Fino, Manzanilla Deliciosa en Rama from Valdespino and an Amontillado, also from Lustau — are all dry, although the Amontillado might be considered a little less so. Oxidization imbues it with nutty and dry fruit flavours appealing to red wine drinkers, which indisputably we are.

 

As the meal progressed, we learned to appreciate the contribution this golden libation plays in Andalusian culinary tradition — not just as a sipper but as an indispensable ingredient.

¡Hola! ¡Olé!

 

Roasted almonds and olives are the most common tapas offered — often gratis with a drink — in tavernas across southern Spain. We were fascinated how each changed the taste of a sherry.

Diane

 

Although I didn’t hop on a plane and ramble la Alhambra, I did explore the recipes of Spain to prepare for the Epitourist gathering. Hola Foodie was a great source for salivating over the possibilities. Sunny Andalusia, home of Seville oranges and olives, inspired this natural pairing for Orange Stuffed Olives  I let the olives marinate several days before stuffing them, and although they were wonderful pops of flavour, I can't help but think our readily available ingredients pale in comparison to the real thing.

Laura

 
It’s no secret I love mushrooms, and living across the road from a gourmet mushroom farm is close to nirvana for me. I often sauté them up in butter and some white wine and serve them with crusty bread. When researching my Andalucian tapas contribution, I came across several references to mushrooms cooked with sherry, or Jerez to be properly Spanish. 

Blue oyster mushrooms, olive oil and sherry!

 

There’s not really a recipe, it’s more of a cook-by-feel thing. You’ll know what I mean when you’re making it. Here’s what I did: Thinly slice one large onion. Heat a good glug of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion until it’s turning golden brown. Then add one pound of mushrooms. I used some beautiful blue oyster mushrooms from Kelly’s Gourmet Mushrooms on Wolfe Island. Oyster mushrooms just need a bit of a trim on the stem and then can be pulled apart into pieces if the caps are large. Smaller ones can be left whole. Keep the heat quite high and don’t crowd the mushrooms in the pan. The aim is to sauté them until they are golden. Then add in sherry. I used Emilio Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado. I’m not sure how much I added. I started with about a quarter cup, let it evaporate, and then kept adding more, along with salt and pepper. Turn down the heat to low. Cook, allowing the flavours to meld together for about 20 minutes until it’s a lovely soft, golden mixture. Taste, and add more salt and pepper if needed. Serve with sliced baguette or other crusty bread.

Caroline

 

With their bull fighting tradition, Rabo de Toro (bull’s tail stew) is deep-seated in the Andalusian food repertoire. I looked to Chef José Andrés to guide me. Kaarina introduced us a couple of years back through his 

Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America cookbook.

 

Unlike most Rabo de Toro recipes that I came across, Chef Andrés’ calls for half a bottle of sherry as well as the usual full bottle of Spanish wine. The addition of the sherry is well worth it, making the sauce both sweet and savoury. Typically, fried potatoes would be served with this stew. For a lighter “more tapas” fare, I opted for Chef Andrés suggestion of fresh bread as a side to sop up the rich sauce. ¡Buen provecho!

 

Rabo de Toro

 

Laura

 

We rarely have room for dessert at these feasts, so I decided to try making tortas de aceite. These slightly sweet, crispy cracker-like biscuits are a specialty of Seville. They are often served with a glass of sherry. They were the perfect end to our meal paired with Diane’s Spanish cheeses, more sherry and wine. 

Torta de aceite, a perfect finish!

 

Diane

 

I couldn’t resist a visit to Alex Farm Fresh cheese for Spanish cheeses.  Strong flavour profiles appealed. The product notes for Montenebro read: "A rind composed of ash and mold means insistent flavor... the damp, cakey, acidic paste near the rind is fierce, with unmistakable overtones of black walnut. Inside the core remains salty, lactic, and soothing." I also selected  Valdeon, "a Spanish blue cheese, wrapped in either sycamore, maple, or chestnut leaves. It has a very intense blue flavour."

In addition to the sherries, we enjoyed an elegant Rioja from the old vine master Marques de Riscal and a full-bodied Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon Balbas Reservas 2006 from Ribera del Duero.

 

Balbas Reservas 2006