Yotam Ottolenghi

Photograph Richard Burbridge

"No one who has grown up in the Mediterranean Middle East can really live without the colors and textures and tastes of home. The food that Ottolenghi serves and writes about often includes them all, but it isn’t ethnic cooking, grounded in one tradition, and it certainly isn’t fusion cooking..."

— The Philosopher Chef, New Yorker Magazine

Caroline

I don't think it would be wrong to say that we Epitourists are fans of Ottolenghi and his bold use of spices, fresh herbs and "unusual to us" ingredients. I thought it would be fun to really explore his recipes and cook some for our February Epitourist lunch. As I was hosting, I offered up the main. Laura chose a "have-cake-will-travel" dessert recipe as she was coming on the train from Wolfe Island. And our Queen of Salads happily put on her thinking cap to come up with a salad plus a Ottoyummy appetizer.

Menu du jour

Fried Olives with Spicy Yogurt - Plenty More

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Peas, Za'atar and Feta Fritters - Simple

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Beet, Avocado and Pea Salad - Plenty More

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Lamb Siniyah + Roasted Eggplant
with Anchovies and Oregano - Simple

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Pistachio and Rosewater Semolina Cake - Sweet

His cookbooks are a delight to the taste buds as well as the eye!

At first I chose to do fritters two ways with a side of eggplant for my main. Having access to daily fresh eggs from our hens, this was a perfect idea for a light lunch main with variety to boot. When I tested my recipes, I did a 180 and headed the other way. Because they were simply delicious, I kept the Peas, Za'atar and Feta Fritters on the menu and offered them as appetizers. The odd combination of mashed peas, fresh mint and feta really works. These little bundles are elegant and will wow any taste buds!

Peas, za'atar and feta fritters

And for the main, a rich lamb Siniyah, a middle eastern equivalent to shepherd's pie. The richness of the stewed lamb and tahini crust makes this dish go a long way. Très riche. The pine nuts add an exotic dimension to the look and texture. A side of roasted eggplant with anchovies and oregano nicely completed the siniyah. This main was paired with a Tessellae Vieilles Vignes Carignan 2015. Delicious.

An attempt at an homage to the Y.O. style

Kaarina

Strange how after decades in the kitchen, cooking can still be humbling. Not by being eclipsed by the creative genius of someone like Ottolenghi but by neglecting something as basic as the importance of measuring all ingredients. Instinctive cooks often tend towards the more-or-less school of weights and measures. In this case, the consequences of my laissez-faire attitude became obvious the second time I made Ottolenghi’s gorgeous Beet Avocado and Pea salad. First time it was a work of art - literally a Monet without the pond - when I made it for our February Epitourist lunch.

A Monet without the pond...

I followed the recipe to the letter. From Ottolenghi’s cookbook Plenty More, it also appeared in his Guardian column. The second time I made it, I realized just before assembling all the ingredients that I had made the dressing for two instead of four servings. So I added a glug of EVOO, a splash of vinegar - and voilà! just like that, the subtle balance was off and the salad lost its magic. As I regretted the haste, the Introduction to his first cookbook, Ottolenghi, came to mind. He talks about the difference between cooking and testing recipes in order to communicate them precisely enough for others to replicate them. Already an international sensation at that time, Ottolenghi recalls how hard it was to force himself to measure and weigh until THAT discipline became instinctive.

Also from Plenty More, Coated Olives in Spicy Yogurt were tasty enough, but not worth the time and effort. The quick spicy yogurt dip benefited from being prepared the day before and using preserved lemons made it irresistible. Paired with Château Val Joanis Tradition Rosé 2016.

Preserved lemons make this sauce irresistible!

Laura

I was tasked with dessert this time. I pulled out my copy of Sweet, by Ottolenghi and his pastry chef Helen Goh. It’s full of beautiful photos of luscious-looking desserts. Because I would be having to transport my dessert by train to Toronto, I needed something that would travel well. I chose the Pistachio and Rosewater Semolina Cake. There is an optional garnish of candied rose petals but unless you can source pesticide-free petals, they suggest it’s best to stick with just the chopped pistachios. That’s what I did.

I had never used semolina flour in a cake before and I was pleased with the texture along with the ground almonds. It’s a very simple cake to put together and it keeps well for a few days. It’s a good thing Ottolenghi mentions in the recipe not to be afraid of pouring the large amount of glaze over the cake. It definitely is a lot of liquid but as Ottolenghi says, “the cake can take it.”
 

Delightful pistachio and rosewater semolina cake