Monday, October 22, 2018

Black Art

Caroline

Winter 2017
Inspired by an article called Black Magic from a back issue of Food and Drink magazine, I chose black as the theme for our October lunch. Yup, black and nothing to do with Hallow's Eve. As the date approached, I amassed a number of black ingredients to build my main. Fermented garlic jam, mullet and herring roes, black truffles, black fermented garlic, French blood pudding, charcoal sea salt from Spain and cuttlefish ink (commonly known as squid ink).

Black is the colour...
A lot of thought, planning and testing goes into the preparation of our Epitourists lunches. After much thought, I settle on an amuse-bouche and a main to utilize as many black ingredients as possible.

Menu

Amuse-bouche of pan fried French blood sausage with black garlic jelly
Mexican black bean soup
Squid ink risotto, seared scallops, wild mushrooms
with all sorts of bells and whistles
Dilano's Black Lemon cheese and Leinala's Bakery potato bread 
Ginger cake and lemon curd whipped cream

Amuse-bouche of Pan Fried
French Blood Sausage with Black Garlic Jelly
Who would have thought that this unlikely combination of sweet and savoury would be so tasty not to mention dramatic. A quick flash is a hot pan was all that the sausage needed to be ready. A smear of jelly on a plate, 1, 2, 3 morsels of blood sausage and let your taste buds be amused!

Mexican Black Bean Soup
Kaarina delighted us with this delicious black bean soup with sophisticated toppings. First the dried black beans were soaked 12 hours and simmered for 3-4 hours along with chopped onion, 2 garlic cloves and salt. She excluded the chorizo, used two Poblano peppers, half a jalapeño and toasted corn kernels instead of tortilla strips.
En route to our Epitourists' lunch, I got word that a friend was offering a pound or so of freshly picked, wild mushrooms for our lunch. How exciting! How exotic! How wild! How wow! I was thrilled to detour in his direction.

Wild shrooms!
After many oohs and aahs over the wild mushrooms, we cleaned them as best we could, sliced them and fried them in olive oil, seasoned with charcoal sea salt and finely sliced green onions. After removing the lovelies, the pan was deglazed with 1/4 cup of sherry and a generous cup of veal stock. Once reduced to half, I plopped in a heaping tablespoon of butter to finish. Now, for the rest of the main... I had decided on Black Squid Ink Risotto with Seared Scallops topped with Charred Shallots and Black Garlic Aïoli. And for a splash of colour, a slice of lemon dotted with mullet and herring roes. Phew! 

My lessons learned: 1. Risotto is not photogenic. 2. The Thermomix is not risotto's best friend. 3. "...less can be more and abundance can still be achieved with fewer ingredient." ❧ Yotam Ottolenghi 4. The mixing of too many exotic ingredients can cause certain tummy malaise.

The not-so-photogenic risotto and his friends
Paired wines: Anselmi San Vincenzo, a Garganega blend from Veneto, Italy and Colomé, a 2017 Torrontés from Argentina.

In keeping with our theme, Laura brought a wedge of Dilano's Black Lemon cheese which, as the packaging states, was "excitingly different". I think we would agree that it was so more in look than in taste. And to keep the dutch gouda want-to-be company, Kaarina offered some lovely sour rye from Milbree-Viking in Newmarket.

Rye and charcoal!
To finish, Laura plated an elegant dessert of moist ginger cake topped with lemon curd whipped cream — David Lebovitz recipes which I will definitely be making this holiday season.

Elegant!

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Local

Laura

We kept with a local theme for July as this is the time when gorgeous fresh food is growing in abundance — some of it in our own backyards. The venue for our meal was the deck of the clubhouse at our sailing club at the beautiful Scarborough Bluffs. On a hot and sticky summer day, there isn’t a better place to be than by the water. Our feast began with homemade pasta made by Caroline and served with garlic scape pesto harvested from her garden.

You got to lo-o-ove that green!
Pesto and Pasta

Kaarina had just returned from sailing the North Channel of Lake Huron and brought me pickerel from the professional fishers at Herbert Fisheries. They operate the freshest fish and chips joint in northern Ontario, literally serving the catch of the day every day. Delicate and mild pickerel needs little adornment. The best way to cook it is to dust it with a mixture of flour, salt and pepper and quickly pan-fry it in butter.

Delicate and Mild Pickerel

I belong to a wonderful CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) at Joyfully Organic Farm who provided me with the fennel, which I used for a fennel confit and a frothed sherry sauce. The local green beans and new potatoes came from Reesor Farm Market near my home.

Fennel confit

1 fennel bulb
1-1/4 cups olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 bay leaf
sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Cut the fennel in half lengthways and then slice into 1/4-inch thick pieces. Place the fennel, olive oil, garlic, bay leaf and salt and pepper in a small saucepan. Place a circle of parchment paper on the surface and cook over a low heat. Once the oil reaches 120°F, remove from the heat and place the pan in a warm place for about 30 minutes until the fennel is softened but not puréed. Drain the fennel, reserving the fennel and discarding the oil and bay leaf. Keep the fennel warm until you are ready to serve.

Sherry sauce

1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 fennel bulb, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/4 cup celery, chopped
1 shallot, chopped
1 cup dry sherry
2 cups fish stock
1 cup whipping cream

Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the fennel, garlic, celery, shallot and salt and pepper and sauté for 7 – 8 minutes or until golden brown, stirring continuously to prevent any catching. Once the vegetables are golden brown and softened, add the sherry and let it bubble over a high heat for about 2 minutes, stirring and scraping the base of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze it. Add the stock and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes, then add the cream and bring the sauce back to the boil for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and blend the sauce until smooth, then pass it through a fine sieve into the rinsed-out pan. If it is too thick, add a little extra fish stock, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Reheat gently until hot, and then keep warm. Just before serving, froth the sherry sauce with a hand-held frother.

Sherry Sauce


Fresh and Local Feast

For dessert, Kaarina chose to make two different ice creams. It is a well-known fact that our Kaarina is not fond of kitchen gadgets, so she was determined to make her ice cream without a fancy ice cream maker. She found this recipe, which worked very well although it took more than twice as long as stated in the instructions: How to make ice cream without an ice cream maker. The showstopper, however, was the tarragon and olive oil ice cream. The tarragon came from Kaarina’s garden. She made a blueberry sauce with Ontario blueberries, and added a few sweet Ontario raspberries to the plate for extra colour.

Handmade Ice Cream and Berries
Kaarina's Lovely Touch


Page 3 of 6 Page 2 of 6 Page 1 of 6

Friday, June 1, 2018

Canadian Cuisine

Kaarina

Our Voyage fantastique to Montreal in May inspired our June Epitour meal. It consisted of two simple courses - an Arctic Char main - followed by a selection of Quebec cheeses. The Arctic Char, which has a short season for wild caught in the far north, was farmed in British Columbia and came to my kitchen via Hooked, a very cool sustainable fish market on Queen St. East, in Toronto’s Leslieville. Since the dish was inspired by a spectacular restaurant meal, I had no recipe to fall back on. My simple interpretation wasn’t up to Caribou Gourmand standard but delicious nevertheless.

Caribou Gourmand Arctic Char


I served my Arctic Char on a pool of pea purée with roasted baby potatoes and asparagus on the side.

Pea Purée


2 cups fresh peas
Half cup chopped sweet onion
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil (divided)
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Sweat the onion in EVOO at medium heat for 10-15 minutes, taking care not to brown it.
2. Bring 1 cup water to a boil. Add peas and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook about 2 minutes for fresh and 4 minutes for frozen. Drain the peas, reserving the cooking liquid. Set half a cup of cooked peas aside.
3. Purée the the remaining peas, onion, lemon juice, salt and pepper, half cup reserved pea cooking liquid and the remaining tablespoon of EVOO until smooth.
 
Kaarina’s Crispy-Skinned Arctic Char

Crispy-skinned Arctic Char

4 (5-ounce pieces) of skin-on Arctic Char fillets
3 tbsp butter
Salt and pepper

1. Melt 3 tbsp butter in a skillet over medium heat.
2. Season the fish generously with salt and pepper.
3. Cook skin side down for 5 minutes. The aim is to crisp the skin slowly, melting the fat under the skin while taking care not to burn it. Turn the fillet and cook 2 minutes on the other side.

To serve

Gently reheat the pea purée. Pour a pool of purée on each plate. Place a fillet off centre on the pure. Scatter reserved peas over the fish and puree and top with a  handful of micro greens.




Monday, May 7, 2018

Les épitouristes à Montréal


J'ai trop mangé! 

Voyage fantastique!

Diane

My friends the epitourists planned a trip to Montreal and I managed to finagle my way along. At first it sounded too extravagant, so I dithered. Fortunately Kaarina, Laura, and Caroline are an understanding bunch so welcomed my change of mind. Also luckily, the Via ticket agent found me a seat with them, so we were able to enjoy a picque-nique en route.


Being in Montreal felt like being in Europe. Mon français est pauvre so it was wonderful to have the fully bilingual Caroline there to help us navigate and translate.

We stayed at a great Air B&B in the Montreal Plateau neighbourhood, and managed to fit side trips in to Notre Dame, the Jardin, the Marche Jean Talon, and even get some fashion shopping in... however the real purpose of the trip was to eat and enjoy. Which we did. J'ai trop mangé.

Breakfasts were at the Air B&B. One morning fresh eggs that Caroline had brought from her "girls", another morning St-Viateur bagels with salmon carpaccio fresh from the market.

Otherwise we were checking out the local restaurants. This trip brought lots of new experiences and tastes on the menus. I am not an epicurean, just epicurious. I am no restaurant critic but I do love food, and trying new tastes, and seeing what tastes go together well - all the better with friends. I dine at fine establishments probably one or two times a year, favouring bacchanals with foodie friends to dinners out. Mainly I object to paying too much for the alcohol.

The WoW factor for restaurants starts with great-tasting and great looking food, but it is of course, so much more. Years ago I had a friend in the restaurant business and she said when you opened an establishment, you needed to concentrate on two of three things... it was impossible to have all three of these: ambience, service, and price (or value for money). That was back in the eighties, though, and when I asked Chef Laura whether she had heard the maxim she said no. I think times have changed, and people want and expect all three.

True nourishment feeds you on many levels, so I also have another requirement - how I feel after the meal. Within the hour, and the next day.

These are my ratings, 5 stars for my experiences, based on the criteria above: food; ambience; service; value; after-effects.


Restaurants

Iberica ****

Loved these little tapas! Especially the oxtail croquettes served on an actual oxtail. The waitress was patient with our questions and attentive; the ambience was ok but a tv was on, which although in Spanish totally detracted from the experience.  Lots of choice and a good wine selection. We enjoyed our morsels with cava.

Joe Beef *****
Number 3 on Canada's Best. Only 30 seats in this establishment! I counted myself lucky to get a reservation for a late Thursday evening, 6 weeks in advance. Definitely my favourite meal of the trip. Great vibe and a wonderful experience - the best service of any of the spots we visited, with Andie taking her time to speak to the details on the chalkboard and answer questions about preparation. The chef briefs front of house every day about ingredients and dishes which is why they are so well informed. Gorgeous plating and perfection in the preparation. I regret not having room for dessert.  We didn't go for the Lobster pasta or Beef, but thouroughly enjoyed the appetizers and main (lamb brisquet). I have no idea how such a small restaurant manages to have such a huge choice of offerings, it is a magic trick! One of the best value meals, too, as Laura and I shared our plates. I will definitely return and might even be able to talk Rob into accompanying me.

Maison Christian Faure ***
We had lunch at this patisserie - of course it was the dessert we came for! The server brought a plate over for us to choose what we wanted. Talk about a tough choice! We lingered over tea before heading back out in the rain. Really delicious, great service, but a bit pricey. I also found all the hard gleaming surfaces to lack a certain welcoming.

Restaraunt L'Original  ****
Loved the ambience - very early Canadian and woodsy, complete with a canoe used for the bar. Quirky embellishments in the decor. Excellent food and fine service. My favourite thing about this meal was the original preparation of bone marrow. A bone, sliced open, with pickled sashimi and red wine sauce. Deeply satisfying. If I ever return I would skip the wine and substitute a cocktail. Aside from this, no regrets.

Caribou Gourmand ** .5
Where else could you find caribou and seal tartare on offer? Who wouldn't be curious? It was an experience however I wouldn't say the flavour was exceptional and the texture was like liver. Having satisfied this curiosity I wouldn't likely order it again. I ordered the wild boar chop with polenta as my main - it was delicious at the start, but before I had even finished the meal I was feeling over-stuffed and a bit queasy. I took my leftovers to go and was astounded by how heavy the little package was. Extremely tasty however lost marks for the after-effects (just how much butter was there??) and remarkably poor service. They also didn't have the wine on their own list, or the dessert that was on the menu (although we were on the first seating). Highly disappointing, however this was one of the most anticipated meals so perhaps I'm being a bit too harsh that it didn't live up to expectations.


Jardin Botanique Restaurant ****
The lunch counter at the botanical gardens was one of my favourite restaurant experiences of the trip. The counter service was quite friendly. Not only were we able to eat outside in a beautiful setting in the sun, the salad and sandwiches were colourful, nourishing, tasty, great value, and left me feeling entirely sated. Just dizzy from a fine spring day.

Cocktail Bars
Cocktail bars do not have entirely the same criteria for me as restaurants. I don't expect great value - I want a bit of theatre + great service + great vibes/fun + lots of choice So maximum four stars.

Flyjin ***
I thought this was Flying Gin when the epitourists were saying the name and so was a tad disappointed it wasn't all about gin cocktails, being such a devoted fan. The Queen Bee concoction, my second drink, was the best - but that is likely because as Kaarina says, anything with Veuve Clicquot has to be good. We sat right at the bar and chatted up the bartender, who was entirely entertaining.

La Distillerie ****
Best drink menu ever! Lots to choose from: A Yoda cocktail that looked just like the master, limes placed for ears; a phenomenal Caesar. A server that suggested they leave out the sugar for someone and add it in later if required. Fantastic bartender, dressed up geisha style and rocking the cocktail shakers.  Good thing we had reservations elsewhere otherwise I could easily have overstayed my welcome.

Wednesday, April 18, 2018

North Africa

Caroline

I picked tagine as a base for our first Epitourists' lunch out of the blue March sky. Somehow I knew that the complex flavours of this dish would appeal to K and L. K chose the appetizer and by default L ended up with the dessert. Passionate cooks that we are, our quest to be as authentic as possible took us to Super Arzon Food Market.

Menu
Labneh Dip with Caramelized Onions
Moroccan Mallow Salad
Chicken Tagine
Preserved Lemon
Harissa



Traditional couscous
proved to be a challenge to find